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UNTTED STATES PATEN T FFTCE.

SAMUEL F. BURDETT, OF KEOKUK, IO\VA, AND HENRY STILL, OF LEAVENWORTH,KANSAS.

SCALE FOR CUTTING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specication of Letters Patent No.

and useful Improvement on Scales for Gutting Boots and Slices; and we dohereby declare that the following is a full, cleai, and exactdescription of the construction!` and operation of the same, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawing, forming a part of thisspecification.

To `enable others skilled in the art to make and use our invention wewill proceed to describe its construction and operation in theaccompanying drawing of aV gaiter pattern, No. 1 AL.

From a point upon the drawing designated by (A,) which point representsthe extreme lower corner of the heel-draw a perpendicular line to (13,)which forms the direct line of the heel, or back seam of a shoe. Thendraw a line at an angle of 40 to the right of said perpendicular line A,B, intersecting point A, (line A to 0,) which forms the line of springor curve of back seam. Then draw a line at an angle of 33o to the leftof said perpendicular line intersect-ing with (A,) (line A to E) whichforms the angle of average ankle measures. Then draw line at an angle of42 to the left of said perpendicular line intersecting with point A,(line A to F) which gives the angle of average heel measures. Then drawa line at an angle of 520 left of said perpendicular line intersectingwith said point A, (line A, to Gr,) which forms t-he angle of averageinstep measures. Then draw a line at an angle of GAO to the left of saidperpendicular line intersecting with said point A, (line A, to H,) whichgives the angle of average ball measures. Then at an angle of 780 G0 tothe left of said perpendicular line draw a line intersecting said pointA, (line A to I, which gives the line whereon to obtain the length ofshoe. These several angles give the correct lines of ankle, heel,instep, ball and toe measures, they ruiming from these several parts ofthe foot to the extreme lower corner of the heel. From a point l 7 /Sinches from A, on line to C, and to a point 4 3/16 inches on same linefrom A, we divide the intermediate space into 22 equal parts, the firstpoint C giving us the height of back seam 25,947, dated November 1,1859.

of childs ls and the latter the height of womans lOs, average sizes, andto the intermediate points we apply the several sizes between the said`childs ls and womans lOs; and the space formed by a point 3 3/8 inchesfrom A, on line to E, and 7 3/8 inches we divide into the same number ofparts (22) and number then seriatim from ls to lOs as aforesaid, theybeing the average height of the shoes front and also the average widthsof ankles and for the purpose of designating the measure of thedifferent sizes at the ankle we affix in inches the amount they cut uponthe outside of the column designating the sizes: as for instance, theaverage size 13 measures 7 inches, and marked 7 inches;

"ever" remembering the scale represents but one half the shoe, and atthe ankle therefore but one half the width of the ankle; and the spaceformed between a point 3 l/et inches from A, on line to F, and a point 615/16 inches from A, we divide int-o the same number of parts, 22, whichrepresents (each part) one third of an inch; and also the average sizesof heel measures, of the different lengths of feet, without which nograduate scale can be perfect. The numbers representing sizes we placenearest the dots, the inches upon the article as afore said in anklemeasure; and the space be-I tween a point 3 5 /16 inches from A, on lineto G, and 7 1/2 inches from A, we divide into the same number of parts,(22) which gives the average instep measures of said several sizes: towhich in like manner as at heel and ankle we affix the several numbersof sizes, and upon the outside of said sizes, aHiX the number of inchesthey cut; as for instance a chi-lds 43s cuts 5 inches, and marked 5;which by the waywe find to be the precise average size, and sothroughout the whole measures; and the space formed between a point 315/16 inches from A, on the line to H, and a point 9 inches from A, wedivide also into the same number of parts (22) by which we obtain anaverage ball measure for the said several sizes of feet, and to which weaiiX the figures showing the sizes with the number of inches they cut asaforesaid in the case of the instep, ankle, &c., and the space formed bya point 5 l/t inches from A, on the line -to I, I, and 12 15/16 incheswe divide into the same number of parts which produces the differentlengths or sizes of shoe, between ls and 10s; and the space formedbetween a point 2 1/8 inches from A, on line to I, and 4 7/8 inches onsame line we divide into the like number of parts: which gives us theterminus of the lace of said sizes; and the space between a point 2 1/2inches from A on the line to D, (which line we obtain by dividing thespace between the points C, and E equally or in two equal parts) and 51/2 inches on same line we divide into the same number' of parts (22)which gives us the commencement or starting point of said lace. Thisprocess gives us only the average measures of the different parts of thefoot, ankle, heel, instep and ball, and to be able to produce any otherrequired size or measure upon these several parts we proceed in thefollowing manner:

To obtain the power of increase and decrease of the ankle measure, wedraw lines from the line A, E, to the line A, C, bisecting t-he pointsof average sizes already marked upon said lines for heights of front ofshoe, and back seam; and from each point on line A, E, measure spaces ofone-fourth of an inch (1/4 in.) on either or rather both sides, and uponthe lines drawn from line A, E, to A, C. Those upon the right side ofsaid mean line A, E, showing a decrease from said average size of 1/2inch and those upon the left side showing an increase of 1/2 inch eachdot or space of 1/4 inch,

'making as in the drawing an increasing and decreasing power of twoinches on each average size; and upon the instep measure to produce thesame result, proceed as fol* lows: From the average size No. 1 on lineA, to G, draw a line toward the point of J, onbase line about two inchesand extend above bisecting point 13, about the same distance. This givesthe line of increase and decrease upon that size; then make dots uponsaid line of increase and decrease 1/4 of an inch apart above and belowsaid mean average number 1, as many as desirable, which gives anincreasing and decreasing power in cutting of one-half of an inch. perdot as in the ankle measure, and upon the remaining number of sizes ofinstep measure, draw a line bisecting each one and parallel with the onedrawn from 1 to J, then add the dots as before (1/4 of an inch apart).Proceed in a similar manner with the ball measure, by drawing a linefrom K, on base line bisecting point 1 on line A, H, and making dots 1/4of anrinch apart above and below said average number 1, on said line 1,K; and thus continue drawing lines bisecting each point or size andparallel with said line 1, K, and place the dots of increase anddecrease of l/4 of an inch on the same as before. To obtain the width oftoe of the said different sizes or length of foot, as in the line L, Lmake a point at a right angle 1 1/2 inches below I', and 15/16 of aninch below I, and draw a line from one 'point thus made to the other,and divide into the same number of parts as in the above line I, I', atsuch an angle as may suit the taste,-it being immaterial, the length ofshoe being governed by the line I, I.

The outline is to be formed so as to fol` low the general figure of thefoot, and preserve the figures of measurement, but the bottom shouldhave an easy full sweep from the point K, to M2, so as to preserve theactual measurement of the ball, and the spring or lasting quality of theshoe. This completes the manner of constructing this scale and thenecessary alteration to adapt it. to any other shoe or boot is obviousto one conversant with the art. We proceed now to describe the manner ofusing it by cutting a gaiter of any size, say length of shoe size 4,ankle 8' inches, heel 11 1/3, instep- 8 1/4, and ball 8 inches, which isa correct average size in all respects of a 4 in length; and for a testthis can be cut out of paper, laying the scale upon a piece and markingthrough the holes corresponding to the dots in the drawing, A, and B,which gives the upright line of the heel; then in No. 4 (womans sizes)of line of back-seam, (A, C); then in 4 of lace, (line A, D); then in 4in ankle (line A, E) then in 4 in heel, (line A, F) then in 4 of instep,(line A, G) then in 4 of ball measure (line A, I-I) which in all theseparts-ankle, heel, instep, and ballit will be observed by the figuresindicating inches that they cut the amount required; then mark in 4length of toe or shoe (line A, I) then in 4 width of toe, (line L, L),and lastly in 4 for bottom of lace, (line A, I). This completes themarking. Now draw the scale upward so that the bottom shall touch themark made for width of toe and the mark made through heel, or A, keepingthe point A directly above the mark made through it, and draw a linefrom one mark to the other; next draw a line from length of toe to widthof toe, L to I; then move the scale downward so as to strike a line withthe top edge from length of toe to ball, and instep measures; then placethe opposite the heel measure so as to strike the instep and anklemeasures and mark accordingly; then with top of scale draw line fromankle to back seam (not rthe mark B but in line A, C; next draw faintline from A, to B with top of scale; then place the top back orner ofscale M even with the mark made for height of back seam which will crossthe line made for top of gaiter upon that mark 4; and move the scale soas to intersect the line from A, to B, or the direct back line of heel,and mark accordingly; this gives the spring or curve of back seam; thenmove the scale upward so that it shall touch the bottom line and thedirect line of the heel at about the :center and draw a line so as togive the rounding of the heel at the bottom as in the example; lastlydraw a. line for the lace from the 4 in top to 4 in the bottom line.This completes a pattern for the said shoe size 4, angle 8 in., heel 1l1/3, instep 8 l/4 in., ball 8 inches; and to cut this length of shoe, orsize with any other measure of ankle, heel or instep or ball we employthe dotted marks of increase and decrease, remembering that the meanlines give the measures of the different parts of the shoe in inches andthe marks above and below, or to the left and right increase anddecrease from that measure one-half of an inch each dot or mark. Say tocut an ankle of size 4, measuring 8 1/2 inches, instead of marking inthe hole we did before we would mark in the first hole to the left butupon the line bisecting the average hole measuring 8 inches. Or shouldwe wish to cut one measuring only 7 inches around the ankle 0f the samelength, (4s,) we would prick through the second hole to the right ofsaid mean or average hole, 8 inches; and so with the ball and instep,&c.; should we wish to cut a 7 1/2 inch ball instead of S inch, we wouldprick through the first hole below the S inch hole, or the average one.Or should the measure be 9 inches ball, then we would use the secondhole above the 8 inch, but remembering always upon the same increasingor decreasing line bisecting the length of shoe, or size which the footmeasures, as in the example 4s. This rule is the same with the instep.

To direct the eye more easily to the average or mean measures we drawfrom them to the outside of the decreasing dots and write or stamp thesizes thereon in figures, therefore the lines on which the figures arewritten are intended for the average measures and have no reference tothe increasing or decreasing powers except when used in connection withthe sizes of the shoe.

Ve omitted to mention in its order the method of employing the heelmeasure when other than average sizes are to be cut, though it may beunnecessary, the method being very obvious. Should we wish to cut a heelmeasuring 11 1/2 inches instead of ll l/S inches we would prick throughthe 11 1/3, and 1l 2/3 marks and when cutting would divide the spacethus made into equal parts. Or should the measure of the heel be l1 1/4inches, we then would prick through the 11, and the 11 1/3 and then inworking divide the space so as to give the proportion required, 11 1/4inches. And so proceed with any other required measure.

)Ve will now proceed to state the manner of constructing our boot scaleand the application of our claim thereto as represented in the annexeddrawings No. 1B and No. 2B. From a perpendicular line A A draw a line atan angle of 8 (degrees) to the right of said line A A (to point B,intersecting point A). Then from point B draw a line to intersect A;this gives the side seam and its spring. Then at an angle of 420(degrees) from said line A A draw a line intersecting point A to pointC; this gives the angle of average heel and instep measures combined.Next from said point B and at a right angle with line A, B, draw a lineto point D; this gives a line of instep measure of i5 inches. Then drawa line parallel with line B, D, and 11/16 of an inch above point A, lineE, E; this gives a line of instep measure of 12 inches. Then divide thespace between said points A, B, and E D, into 28 equal parts, eachrepresenting the 1/4 of an inch, being therefore an increase of instepmeasure of 7 inches from line E E, to line B, D. (Extend this someproportions of an inch above the line B, B, two numbers or one half ofan inch, to accommodate the average measures which we will describehereafter.) Then draw lines from said line A, B, to line E, D, upon saiddivisions so made, and the points of intersection of said instep lineswith said angle of average heel and instep measures gives the averagemeasures of heel and instep for all sizes of boots from childs ls tomens 18s. (Ve here wish to say that average sizes adopted by us are suchas we have found by actual measurement of thousands of different feet.)Now to produce the power of cutting the heel measure of any dimensionwith an instep measure of any other required size at one stroke, draw aline F G 1 3/4 inches to the left and parallel with line E D, whichgives a heel measn ure of G inches; also draw another line F Gr 3 3/4inches from and parallel with line E, D, which gives a heel measure of1G inches, and the space between said lines thus drawn F, Gr, and F Gbeing 2 1/8 inches, divide into 2O equal parts on each line B, D, and E,E, drawing lines from one to the Aother crossing the instep lines madeas aforesaid and extending them above the line G, D, so as to cross theinstep measures of less inches than 5, and below the said average lineas many lines as desirable, and the points of intersection of theselines of heel measure with the lines 'of instep measures produce theamounts in inches designated in numbers upon each of said lines, andwhich we will explain in the instruction for using.

The width of calf is obtained by drawing a line from the point D, to H,intersecting the line A A at H, and dividing the space between a pointthereon 3 3/8 inches (which gives a calf measure of 6 inches whenconnected with the back of boot) and 8 3/8 inches (the same space being5 inches) intol ten (10) equal parts, which represent each part, oneinch; and the same may be divided into any other part of an inch, as inthe drawing, oit' 1/4; and to produce the proper proportions of top ofboot or calf with the average measures as aforesaid of heel and instepwe divide the same space 5 inches on line I, A, into 30 equal parts. Toobtain the front line of scale intersect the point C, with line parallelwith line A A and from said point C, make such a curve to the right aswill produce the general outline of a criiciliped vamp or boot front asfrom C, to

To obtain the length, and width of toe, draw a line from D so as tointersect a line drawn from top of vamp downward to G 1 1/8 inches at apoint 2 inches from said point D. This gives the length and width of toeof childs 1s, and at a point 8 5/8 inches from D, and 1 3/4 inches fromsaid top line of vamp (C) downward we obtain the width and length of toeof mens 16s. Then draw a line from one point so made to the other anddivide the space between them into 28 equal parts which will be thelength and width of toe of all sizes between the said ls and ls.

The figures upon the line A B are used to give the height of spring ofseam of the several sizes, and are obtained in the following manner:Extend spaces above and below the line E E of 1/8 of an inch apart, andsuch a number as will express the amount of sizes employed. The line E,E representing the proper spring of size 12, and each 1/8 of an inchbelow increase two sizes, and each right above decreasing two sizes.

The outline of bottom of scale is obtained without any definite rule butthe general contour of the front must be preserved, passing from thepoint representing the width of toe at largest size to the figurerepresenting the bottom of side seam as from K, to A. This we believe isall that is necessary with figure No. 1B.

For No. 2B, (being the back of boot,'pro ceed in the following manner:Draw perpendicular line O O which represents direct line of seam. Thenfrom the point 0 draw a line at an angle of 550 (degrees) to P, whichgives the angle of average heel and instep measures combined as in thefigure No. 1B. Then draw a line 3/16 of an inch above point O and at aright angle with line O O, line P, P, which gives an instep measure of12 inches; also another line Q, Q', at right angle with said line C O 17/8 inches above and parallel with said line P, P, which gives an instepmeasure of 4 1/2 inches, the intermediate space between said points P Q,on line O O, and P Q on line R, R divide into 15 equal spaces, whichgives an increase of instep measure from 4 1/2 inches to 12 inches.

These spaces maybe divided `into other portions of an inch but the aboveare sufficiently small to work plainly; then divide the s ace on line PP between 3/8 of an inch fliom liuc O, O, and 3 inches from said line O,O', into 20 equal parts, the first being the width of a heel measuring1G inches and the last that of a heel measuring 6 inches; then drawlines intersecting the lines drawn for instep measures and as far aboveand below the angle of average measures of heel and instep as desirable.Next, for the purpose of obtaining the average heel and instep measuresupon the line O, P, divide the same between the points of intersectionof the lines Q, Q and P P into thirtyequal parts which gives the averagemeasures of all sizes between childs ls and mans 18 combined. For backof scale line R, R, draw line parallel with line O, O, 4 1/2 inchestherefrom, and from O to the left to S, 13/16 of an inch draw line to Swhich gives the top of spring of calf or boot top. This may be alteredto suit the requirements of any person making the same.

To obtain width of calf draw line from T to Gr on line R, R,intersecting line S, S 1/4 of an inch below S and divide the spacebetween. a point 2 1/4; inches from T, and 7 1/4 inches into 10 equalparts and each of said 10 parts into other portions of an inch. Thisgives the calf measure in inches the first point measurinor 6 inches andthe last one 16 inches, and or a proportionate top for the regularaverage sizes divide the saine space as above (5 inches) commencing thesame distance from line R, R, into 80 equal parts each part representingthe sizes from the said 1s to 18s. To obtain height of spring in thispart of the boot proceed in the same manner as in scale No. 1B.

That the eye may obtain the sizes of average heel and instep measure wedraw lines at right angles downward from said average line and upon eachline write the proper number, as in the column 1 to 18 in both drawingsNo. 1B, and No. 2B, and upon the outside of said column of sizes weaiiix the instep measures as from 5 to 12 of each scale, and the heelmeasure represented by the heavy lines running up and down we aflix theamount they cut in inches, as in columns 6 to 16 of each scale of heelIneasceed to explain the mode of using. To cut any average size of bootfront, place the scale No. 1B, upon the leather so that the crimpedpoint or throat and the front of leg or shin shall be even with the sameparts of the leather to be cut. Or for trial the same may be laid upon apiece of paper and the front outline (C C C) drawn. Then whatever may bethe length of boot desired mark in the said average line (A, 0,).corresponding to said length, so also in the calf and toe measures. Asfor instance should you wish to cut size No. 2, mark in the holedesignated by Fig. 2 in the column representing sizes in the saidaverage line A, C; then in the same number of calf, and same number oftoe measure. This constitutes all the marking necessary for the front.Now move the scale so as to place the Fig. 2 in spring of side seamopposite the mark made through the measure of heel and instep in saidaverage line and draw a line so as to cross the mark made through thecalf measure following the outline of side seam of scale line A, B, A.Then place the toe, (point K,) upon the mark made for width and lengthof toe and draw line from top edge of vamp to intersect the line of sideseam at the same point of heel and instep measure. This simple processcompletes the front. The back is cut in a similar manner. Place the backline R, R, upon the folded edge of the leather or piece of paper, andmark through No. 2 of average sizes in line O, P', and in same number ofcalf. Then place the scale so that number 2 of side spring shall be uponthe mark made for heel and instep, and draw line to the top mark as withthe front. Then move the scale to the right or upward (having the backline R, R, toward you) until the bottom edge shall be even with the saidheel and instep mark; then draw line for bottom of heel. But supposingthat instead of an average size we wish to cut an irregular or uncommonone, that is the number we have already out (2s) measured 11 inchesheel, and 8 inches instep, and we desire to cut the same heel with aninstep of 8 1/2 inches instead of 8. We would simply prick in the secondhole below the one we did but upon the same line of heel measure, or ifless than 8 inches say 7 inches then in the second hole above the one wedid but in the same heel line; or if we desired to retain the instep butincrease the heel measure, say from 11 to 12 inches then we would keepupon the same instep line (8 in.) and prick through the hole of heelmeasures designated by the number l2. Or should we desire a smaller heelwith same instep say 10 1/2 we would then prick through the hole at theintersection of said line 10 1,/2 of heel measure with the instep of 8inches.

The chief point to be remembered is that all the lines representinginstep measures cut only the amount designated by the figures attachedto them no matter which side of the average line, and that all the linesof heel measure cut but the amount designated upon them no mattei'whether above or below the said average line of heel and instep measurescombined. There being a power of increase and decrease of 4 inches uponeach heel line, and a power of increase and decrease of instep measureof 3 inches or more, any combination of these can readily be found uponthe scale and at one stroke be marked except in cases Where smallerportions of an inch is required than is set forth, in which case and toobtain which all that is necessary is to prick in the nearest measureabove and below the amount desired and work between them when cutting,making the proper division.

When using inch measures instead of regular sizes, use in calf measurethe column representing inches instead of sizes.

Having thus fully described the construction and manner of using ourinvention we now proceed to state our claim.

We are aware there are other devices in use of scales for cutting bootsand shoes by means of arranged numbers but which do not constitute thenovelty and perfection of this our device, and therefore we do not claimthe device or arrangement of figures whereby a boot or shoe can be cut,nor do we limit the application of our claim to one kind of boot andshoe but by a simple and obvious change is applicable to all kinds.

What we do claim therefore and desire to secure by Letters Patent of theUnited States 1s:

l. The lines of average ankle, heel, instep, and ball measures runningfrom the point A7 (in 1igureNo. 1A) or any other given point that willproduce the same result, with the lines of increase and decreaseintersecting them at such an angle and at such a distance from eachother as will produce the purpose set forth.

2. We claim the device of so arranging the heel and instep measures asin figures No.1B, No. 2B, that any required size of said heel and instepmay be marked at one stroke; with or without the combination of theaverage measures of the same.

3. We claim the one third of an inch increase and decrease of averageheel measures upon the dii/ferent lengths of lasts, or such portions ofan inch as will produce the same elfect, substantially as herein setforth.

SAML. F. BURDETT. HENRY STILL.

Attest:

S. A. DUKE, Gno. W. MCCRARY.

